William J. (Bill) Stephens

Photojournalist/Fiction Writer

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In Search of Spirits

Deep in the heart of Los Angeles's Koreatown, in a modest building on a side street, spiritual practitioners gather to perform rituals that date back thousands of years. This is the world of Korean shamanism in America—a world where ancient traditions meet modern life.

Korean shamanism, known as Muism or Shamanism, is one of the world's oldest spiritual traditions. It predates Buddhism and Christianity in Korea, and it remains deeply embedded in Korean culture, even as practitioners have emigrated to countries like the United States.

A shaman, or mudang as they are called in Korean, is a spiritual intermediary—someone believed to communicate with spirits and ancestors. In Korea, shamans have long been consulted for healing, guidance, and spiritual insight.

In Los Angeles's Koreatown, several shamans have established practices, serving the Korean American community. One such practitioner, a woman named Kwan, has been practicing Korean shamanism for over thirty years, first in Korea and now in Los Angeles.

"Many Korean Americans come to me with problems that they feel Western medicine or psychology cannot solve," explained Kwan, speaking in a quiet room lit by candlelight and adorned with religious icons. "They seek spiritual guidance, healing from past traumas, or connection with ancestors who have passed."

A typical shamanic ritual, or kut, can last several hours. It involves chanting, drumming, dancing, and offerings of food and drink to spirits. The shaman enters a trance-like state, believed to be possessed by spirits who communicate through her.

"The ritual is a conversation between the living and the spiritual world," said Kwan. "Through this conversation, healing occurs. Ancestors who have unfinished business can find peace. The living can receive guidance and comfort."

One of Kwan's clients, a middle-aged Korean American woman named Soon-ja, shared her experience. "I came to Kwan feeling lost and depressed," she said. "I had tried therapy, medication, nothing seemed to help. After the ritual, I felt lighter, as if something heavy had been lifted from my shoulders. I felt connected to my ancestors, to my heritage."

For many Korean Americans, especially the first generation, shamanism represents a bridge to their homeland and their ancestral roots. It is a way of maintaining cultural identity in a new country.

"My parents never talked much about shamanism," said another client, a younger Korean American woman. "But when I went through a difficult time, my mother suggested I see a shaman. I was skeptical at first, but I went anyway. And it helped. It also made me appreciate my culture in a way I hadn't before."

The practice of shamanism in America is not without challenges. Korean American shamans often work quietly, aware that their practices may be misunderstood or even stigmatized by mainstream American society. Many advertise primarily within the Korean American community through word of mouth.

Despite these challenges, shamanism continues to thrive in Koreatown. Kwan's calendar is filled with clients, and she has trained several apprentices to carry on the tradition.

"Shamanism is not superstition," Kwan said firmly. "It is a legitimate spiritual practice with thousands of years of history. It addresses the spiritual dimension of human experience, something that modern Western culture often neglects."

She added: "In Korea, shamanism has survived invasions, colonization, and modernization. It will survive here too. As long as there are people seeking spiritual connection and healing, there will be shamans to serve them."

As the evening progressed and more clients arrived, it became clear that Korean shamanism, far from being a relic of the past, remains a vital and living tradition. In the quiet spaces of Koreatown, ancient rituals continue, serving the spiritual needs of Korean Americans searching for meaning, healing, and connection to their cultural heritage.